Snowshoeing is one of the most forgiving ways to spend time outdoors in winter. If you can walk, you can snowshoe — the technique takes about ten minutes to learn. The real questions are which snowshoes match your weight and terrain, and whether your boots are warm enough. Here's what to buy, in the order that matters.
By Colin B. · Published May 24, 2026 · Last reviewed June 11, 2026
Snowshoes are the main cost ($100-200). If you already own warm waterproof boots, your total kit comes in well under $250. Poles are optional on flat terrain.
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At a glance
Our top pick in each category
The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category.
Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.
Snowshoe sizing is about your body weight plus pack weight, not your shoe size. Every manufacturer publishes a weight chart and you should follow it. The right-sized snowshoe keeps you on top of soft snow; the wrong size has you punching through on every step.
Your current winter boots might already work. Any waterproof boot rated below 0°F that fits a standard snowshoe binding is fine for day hiking. Save the boot budget unless your current winter footwear is inadequate.
Trekking poles are optional on flat groomed trails but become essentially mandatory once you're on hills or uneven terrain. They save your knees on descents and keep you upright on icy side-slopes. Buy cheap collapsible ones before your first outing — you'll use them every time.
The gear
What you actually need
Snowshoes
The most important decision in snowshoeing is matching snowshoe size to your body weight — this is called float rating, and every manufacturer publishes a weight chart you should actually follow. Heavier hikers need more surface area to stay on top of soft snow; lighter hikers can use shorter, more maneuverable frames. For flat groomed trails, go smaller. For backcountry powder, go bigger. Frame material matters too: aluminum is lighter and more durable than plastic decks but costs more. Bindings should cinch over any boot without fiddling — look for a step-in or ratchet design, not buckle straps that take two hands to tighten in the cold.
Snowshoes — what's the difference?
A few common shapes, each making a different trade.
Recreational (20-22 inch)
Packed trails and groomed snow. The right starting size for most beginners.
Frame size
20-22 inches
Weight capacity
Up to 180 lbs with pack
Best terrain
Groomed, packed trails
Best for Day hikers, beginners, groomed nature center trails
Tradeoff Sinks in deep unconsolidated powder; less float
Ultralight speed shoe for snow running and racing. Not for hiking.
Frame size
8-12 inches
Weight capacity
Up to 150 lbs
Best terrain
Hard-packed snow, groomed trails
Best for Trail runners transitioning to snow running
Tradeoff Minimal float — useless in soft snow; single-purpose tool
Best starter
MSR
Evo Trail Snowshoe 22-inch
$169.95 as of Jun 22, 2026
★★★★★Our rating· In Stock
MSR's entry-level aluminum frame is the most-recommended beginner snowshoe for good reason. Steel crampons grip real ice, the Universal Binding wraps any boot without tools, and the 22-inch size handles most day-hikers up to 180 pounds on packed trails. It runs narrow enough to prevent the wide-gait shuffle that tires beginners out. Aluminum survives first-year abuse without cracking or warping.
What we like
Aluminum frame and steel crampons outlast plastic decks by years
Universal Binding fits any boot without tools or sizing adjustments
Narrow frame prevents the wide-gait shuffle that tires beginners out
What to know
One size only — hikers over 180 lbs need the 25-inch model
No heel lift bar — sustained climbs get tiring without one
If you're not certain snowshoeing will stick, Yukon Charlie's lets you try it for under $80. Injection-molded frames are heavier than aluminum and can get brittle in extreme cold, but they do the job on groomed trails and gentle terrain. A sensible way to figure out if you want to invest in a proper pair before spending $150.
What we like
Under $60 — the right price for figuring out if you'll stick with it
Wide design provides decent float on groomed soft snow
What to know
Plastic decks add weight and crack in extreme cold unlike aluminum
Binding adjustments take longer than premium step-in designs
★★★★☆Our rating· Only 10 left in stock - order soon.
When you're ready to venture off-trail or into serious winter terrain, this is what guides and backcountry regulars carry. Modular tails extend surface area for deeper powder, aggressive crampons handle steep icy terrain, and the heel lift bar meaningfully reduces calf fatigue on sustained climbs. Heavy investment for day hiking, but the right call if you're heading into the mountains.
What we like
Modular tails extend surface area for deeper powder conditions
Aggressive toe and heel crampons handle steep icy terrain confidently
Heel lift bar dramatically reduces calf fatigue on sustained climbs
What to know
Over $200 — significant investment for occasional day hikers
Heavier than recreational frames; overkill on groomed trails
Trekking poles make a bigger difference in snowshoeing than on dry trails. They help with balance on uneven snow, reduce knee strain on descents, and give you a way to arrest a slip on a steep icy section. The key spec is adjustability: shorten them for uphill, lengthen for descent. For snow, you also want large snow baskets installed — a standard rubber hiking tip will sink through powder instead of giving you a clean plant. Look for baskets at least 70mm across, which should come standard on winter-configured poles.
Budget pick
Cascade Mountain Tech
Adjustable Trekking Poles
$
★★★★☆Our rating
The poles most first-time snowshoers should buy. Adjustable aluminum construction, foam grip that stays workable in cold gloves, and they collapse to pack inside a car bag. Under $40 for a pair. Nothing fancy — but poles don't need to be fancy. They need to keep you upright when you post-hole through a snow crust at mile three.
What we like
Under $40 for a pair — the lowest justifiable entry point for poles
Adjustable 24 to 54 inches — works for any height, any terrain
What to know
Foam grips get cold on sub-zero days; cork handles better in real cold
Tips dull faster than carbide; plan to replace them after a season
Cork grip, tungsten carbide tips that bite through ice, and oversized snow baskets included — the pieces that matter for snowshoeing. Cork absorbs sweat and stays comfortable through a three-hour outing without the frozen-rubber feel of budget foam. The aluminum shaft won't break when you plant them hard on a steep descent. A thoughtful step up from budget aluminum without carbon's fragility.
What we like
Cork grip wicks sweat and stays comfortable for 3-4 hour outings
Snow baskets included — no hardware sourcing before your first outing
Tungsten carbide tips grip ice that rubber tips slide on
What to know
Heavier than carbon poles — worth considering once you're doing long days
More expensive than budget aluminum with less separation from carbon
Your boots need to do two things for snowshoeing: keep your feet warm and fit the snowshoe binding. Almost every binding fits boots from size 6 to 13 — check compatibility only if you're outside that range. Insulation rating matters more than most beginners expect: snowshoeing generates heat while moving but you stop frequently in cold air. Look for at least -20°F rating for anything below freezing, and -40°F if you're heading out in genuine winter. Waterproofing is non-negotiable — a soaked boot at mile two is a medical problem, not a discomfort.
Budget pick
Kamik
Nationplus Winter Boot
$
★★★★☆Our rating
Under $90 and genuinely functional for casual snowshoeing days. Kamik has been making winter boots since 1898 — they understand cold in a way that fashion boot brands don't. The removable liner dries overnight instead of staying damp for days, and the waterproof upper does what it says. Not a serious mountaineering boot, which is fine, because you're not doing serious mountaineering yet.
What we like
Under $80 and genuinely warm for most winter day conditions
Removable liner dries overnight instead of staying damp for days
What to know
Heavy sole adds noticeable weight over miles of uneven trail
Less ankle support than purpose-built hiking boots on uneven snow
200g of Omni-Heat Reflective insulation keeps feet warm to -25°F, the grip outsole bites snow and ice without pretending to be a mountaineering boot, and every snowshoe binding on the market fits it without modification. It's also a legitimate everyday winter boot — you're not buying a single-use item. The kind of purchase that pays for itself the second winter.
What we like
Rated to -25°F — actually warm enough for real winter, not just cool weather
Omni-Heat Reflective lining noticeably warmer than plain insulation
Fits every snowshoe binding on the market without modification
What to know
Runs narrow in the toe box — worth trying on before ordering
Not stiff enough for technical mountaineering crampons
The winter boot serious snowshoers and cold-climate residents reach for when conditions get real. A vulcanized rubber shell that's genuinely waterproof, not just water-resistant, and a removable 9mm felt plus 1.5mm recycled rubber liner warm enough for sustained outdoor days in serious cold. Expensive, but the Caribou lasts a decade — a one-time investment in your cold-weather life.
What we like
Vulcanized rubber shell is genuinely waterproof, not water-resistant
9mm felt liner provides warmth for sustained cold-weather days
Built to last 10+ years with minimal care
What to know
Heavy — significant weight penalty on long distances in rough terrain
Gaiters seal the gap between your boot top and your pants leg — exactly where snow infiltrates and then melts into your sock. Without them, packed snow wicks into your boot whenever you step off-trail or the surface breaks underfoot. The good news: gaiters are cheap and simple. An ankle gaiter handles groomed trails. A knee-height gaiter is what you want for anything involving fresh snow, off-trail travel, or post-holing. You won't regret owning both.
Budget pick
Outdoor Research
Surge Running Gaiters
$
★★★★☆Our rating
Ankle-height gaiters that solve the main problem — snow sneaking into your boot cuff — without the cost or bulk of a full gaiter. For groomed trails and packed snow where you're not breaking trail, these handle 80% of snowshoeing conditions. The low profile also slips over snowshoe bindings in under a minute.
What we like
Ankle-height design puts on in 30 seconds — no fighting with closures
Solves boot infiltration on packed trails for under $30
What to know
No coverage above the ankle — useless in deep unconsolidated snow
Velcro closure wears out after a season of heavy use
Knee-height coverage that handles the worst post-holing without snow reaching your calf. The instep strap stays secure over snowshoe bindings all day, and the nylon shell sheds surface snow and light wet. If you're only buying one pair of gaiters for real snowshoeing conditions, buy these.
What we like
Knee-height coverage stops snow infiltration even when post-holing
Instep strap stays secure over snowshoe bindings all day
What to know
Takes 2-3 minutes to put on — a nuisance at the trailhead at first
Full-height coverage is overkill on groomed trails; ankle gaiters suffice there
Snowshoeing creates more body heat than most people expect — you'll be warm while moving and cold the moment you stop. The solution is a moisture-wicking base layer that moves sweat away from your skin, keeping you dry during effort and preventing the clammy chill when you pause. Merino wool is the gold standard: it regulates temperature across a wide range, doesn't smell after a day of use, and is comfortable enough to wear without a mid layer on warmer days. Cotton holds moisture and gets cold fast — leave it at home.
Budget pick
Minus33
Midweight Merino Wool Crew
$
★★★★☆Our rating
Real merino wool at 20-30% less than Smartwool, with slightly less next-to-skin softness. For most snowshoers, the performance difference is academic. Minus33 is family-owned, ethically sourced, and actually performs in cold weather — this isn't a price cut on inferior fiber.
What we like
Real merino wool at 20-30% less than the big brands — same fiber
Family-owned brand; ethical sourcing is verifiable
What to know
Slightly scratchier against sensitive skin than Smartwool's softer blends
Runs large — order a size down for a properly fitted base layer
Merino wool regulates temperature better than synthetics when you're alternating hard effort with cold rest stops — exactly the snowshoeing pattern. It also doesn't smell after a day of use, which matters on long outings. Smartwool's thermal weight is the right call for most winter activity: warm enough to stand still in, breathable enough to hike hard in.
What we like
Regulates temperature well across hard effort and cold rest stops
Merino doesn't smell after a day of use — critical for long outings
Machine washable unlike some performance fabrics
What to know
More expensive than synthetic base layers with similar warmth ratings
Delicate fiber — avoid snagging on rough pack straps or velcro
Snowshoeing has a reputation for being a beginner sport, and that reputation is deserved — with one caveat. “Easy to start” means you’ll be functional within the first half-hour. It doesn’t mean the cold, the terrain, and the gear sizing aren’t real. People who have a bad first day almost always made a preventable mistake: wrong-sized snowshoes, boots that weren’t warm enough, or too ambitious a trail. Get those three things right and snowshoeing is as forgiving as advertised.
This is what your first season actually looks like.
Your first outing: groomed trails only
The best first snowshoe outing is at a nature center, a state park groomed loop, or a well-traveled trail that sees enough foot traffic to pack the snow down. You don’t want your first time breaking trail in deep powder. That’s a workout for experienced snowshoers; for a first-timer, it’s demoralizing.
What to expect:
Putting the snowshoes on. Give yourself ten minutes at the trailhead to sort out the bindings before you’re cold and impatient. Modern step-in and ratchet bindings are simple once you’ve done them twice, but the first time always involves reading the instructions. Practice at home first if you’re the anxious type.
Gait adjustment. Your natural walking stride is too narrow for snowshoes. You’ll need to walk with your feet slightly wider apart to avoid clipping one snowshoe against the other. This feels weird for the first ten minutes and normal by minute twenty. Don’t fight it.
Poles feel essential immediately. Even on flat terrain, trekking poles give you something to lean on when you step onto a patch that’s harder or softer than expected. Use them even if you feel like you don’t need them.
Dressing for snowshoeing: the part beginners get wrong
Most people dress for how cold it is standing outside. Snowshoeing generates significant body heat — you’ll be warm within five minutes of moving and sweating within fifteen, even when the air temperature is in the teens. The standard heavy-jacket approach leaves you either overheated on the climb or freezing on the descent.
The system that works: three layers, not one.
Base layer — A moisture-wicking merino wool or synthetic base layer pulls sweat away from your skin. This is the most important piece. Cotton is actively dangerous in cold weather: it absorbs moisture and stays wet against your skin, chilling you rapidly when you stop moving. Merino wool breathes, regulates temperature, and doesn’t smell after a long day.
Mid layer — A fleece or a lightweight insulated jacket that you’ll probably stuff in your pack within 30 minutes of starting. You need it at the trailhead and at summit stops; you don’t need it while moving hard.
Shell — A waterproof outer layer that blocks wind and sheds snow. It doesn’t need to be a heavy expedition jacket. A light rain shell rated for snow works fine for most conditions.
The system sounds like more work than just wearing a big coat, but the result is that you’re comfortable across the full swing from hard uphill effort to cold summit breaks — which is the actual experience of snowshoeing.
Reading terrain on snowshoes
Packed snow on a groomed trail is forgiving and predictable. Once you leave a groomed surface, terrain starts to matter.
Crust — A hard frozen crust on top of softer snow is the most treacherous surface for snowshoers. You’ll walk on top fine, then suddenly punch through to mid-shin on the next step. This is called post-holing, and it’s exhausting. The crampons on your snowshoes help on icy crust; on soft underlying snow there’s no fix except moving slowly and deliberately.
Side-hilling — Traversing a slope sideways instead of going straight up or down. This is where beginners struggle most. Your snowshoes want to slip downhill. Dig the uphill edges of your crampons into the snow, lean slightly into the slope, and use your poles aggressively. If it feels sketchy, it probably is — switchback instead.
Descents — Going downhill on snowshoes is easier than it looks. Lean back slightly, take shorter steps, and use your poles for balance. The crampons do the braking work. The instinct to lean forward (as you would on skis) works against you — lean back.
When to turn around — If the snow is unconsolidated powder above knee height, the terrain is steeper than you’re comfortable with, or conditions are changing (afternoon warming, wind picking up), turn around. Snowshoeing has a low-drama safety record because snowshoers are generally conservative. Keep it that way.
What improves naturally vs. what you have to practice
Some things get better on their own just by going out more:
Gait — The wide-step shuffle becomes automatic within a few outings.
Binding speed — You’ll have snowshoes on in two minutes by your fifth outing.
Pacing — You’ll learn your own rhythm and stop underestimating how much energy snow conditions add to an otherwise easy distance.
Some things only improve if you pay attention:
Layering decisions — You need to decide when to add or remove layers before you’re too hot or too cold. Most beginners learn this after one uncomfortable day.
Weather reading — Afternoon sun weakens snow surfaces; post-lunch conditions on a sunny spring day are often worse than the morning. Knowing to start early on variable days takes intentional learning.
Uphill technique — Engaging the heel lift bar on technical snowshoes, using kick-step technique on steep icy faces, and knowing when to switchback vs. direct-ascent. These take experience.
Your first season, practically speaking
Outings 1-3: Groomed trails, 3-5 miles, flat to rolling terrain. Focus on gear, layering, and gait. These are the outings where you work out the bugs — wrong base layer, boots that aren’t warm enough, poles set at the wrong height.
Outings 4-8: Ungroomed marked trails. Start breaking trail and dealing with variable snow conditions. Learn post-holing, crust, and side-hilling. This is where snowshoeing becomes interesting.
Outings 9+: You’re no longer a beginner. Pick longer routes, more elevation gain, earlier starts. Start thinking about where you want to go that you couldn’t have gone without snowshoes.
By mid-season you’ll have a list of trails you want to return to in summer — snowshoeing has a way of showing you terrain from an angle that makes you want to see it in every season.
Save your money
What you don't need yet
Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play
better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.
Avalanche safety kit (beacon, probe, shovel) — Essential for serious backcountry in avalanche terrain. Unnecessary for groomed trails, marked nature paths, or day hikes at established parks.
Microspikes or crampons — A different tool for a different problem — walking on ice without snowshoes. You'll know when you need them. Don't confuse them with snowshoes.
A snowshoe-specific daypack — Any daypack with a hip belt works. A snowshoe-specific pack is a convenience upgrade, not a necessity.
Chemical hand warmers — Nice in extreme cold, but good waterproof gloves or mittens solve the problem better and indefinitely. Buy quality handwear first.
GPS beacon or personal locator — For remote backcountry trips, yes. For your first dozen outings on marked trails near a trailhead, your phone and leaving a trip plan with someone is plenty.
First week
Your first seven days
A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.
Find a snowshoe trail or nature center near you — many state and county parks groom snowshoe loops in winter. · Action
Verify your winter boots are waterproof and rated below 0°F. If not, this is the moment to upgrade — wet feet at mile two is a miserable experience. · Action
Get a pair of gaiters before your first outing. Snow infiltrating your boot cuff is annoying for the first five minutes and dangerous for the next two hours. · Buy
Dress in layers. A moisture-wicking base, an insulating mid layer, and a waterproof shell outperform any single heavy jacket when your effort level varies. · Learn
Tell someone your trailhead, your route, and your expected return time before you go. This is basic winter safety, not paranoia. · Action
FAQ
Common questions
What size snowshoes do I need?
Size is determined by your body weight plus pack weight, not your shoe size. Most manufacturers provide a weight chart: typically 20-22 inch frames for people under 150 lbs, 25-inch frames for 150-200 lbs, and 30-inch frames for 200+ lbs or deep-powder conditions. When in doubt, go bigger — more float is better than too little.
Do I need trekking poles for snowshoeing?
Not on flat groomed trails, but yes on anything with hills. Poles dramatically reduce knee strain on descents, help you stay upright on icy side-slopes, and give you something to lean on when you punch through a snow crust unexpectedly. Buy cheap aluminum poles before your first hilly outing and you'll use them every time.
Can I use regular hiking boots for snowshoeing?
Only if they're waterproof and warm enough for the conditions. A three-season hiking boot in below-freezing temps will leave your feet cold and wet within the first mile. You need a boot rated for real cold — at minimum -20°F. If your hiking boots meet that standard, you're fine. If not, buy dedicated winter boots.
How hard is snowshoeing physically?
Harder than walking on dry ground, easier than cross-country skiing. Expect to work about 50% harder for the same distance and elevation gain as summer hiking — the added weight of the snowshoes and the resistance of snow add up. Start with shorter outings than your summer hiking distance and add more once you know how your body responds.
What's the difference between recreational and backcountry snowshoes?
Recreational snowshoes are lighter and narrower, designed for groomed trails and moderate packed-snow terrain. Backcountry snowshoes have longer frames for float in soft powder, more aggressive crampons for steep terrain, and often a heel lift bar for climbs. Start with recreational. Buy backcountry when you've earned the need.
How much should I expect to spend to get started?
Budget around $150-200 for a solid pair of beginner snowshoes, $30-80 for poles, and $80-150 for boots if you don't already own suitable ones. Add $25-50 for gaiters. Total first-kit spend runs $285-430 fully equipped; significantly less if your winter boots already work.
REI Expert Advice: Snowshoeing — REI's comprehensive beginner guide covers sizing, technique, safety, and trail finding. A reliable starting point before your first outing.
MSR Snowshoe Selection Guide — MSR's sizing guide walks through float rating, terrain type, and binding selection in specific terms. Useful even if you don't buy MSR.
AllTrails Snowshoeing — Filter trails by 'snowshoe' activity type. Includes difficulty ratings, reviews, and photos from people who've hiked the route recently.
American Hiking Society — Winter trail safety, Leave No Trace principles, and trail advocacy. A good complement to AllTrails for understanding trail etiquette.
r/snowshoeing — Small but active community. Good for gear questions, trail recommendations by region, and first-timer questions answered without judgment.
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