Warhammer 40,000 turns an $85 box of plastic sprues into a hand-painted army you built yourself. It is expensive, slow, and deeply satisfying. This guide tells you exactly what to buy first, and in what order, so you don't blow $300 on the wrong things in week one.
By Colin B. · Published May 24, 2026 · Last reviewed June 9, 2026
A Combat Patrol box ($85–130) plus paints, tools, and primer gets you started around $150. Expect $250–300 once you have everything you actually need.
We earn commission on qualifying Amazon purchases — see our
affiliate disclosure.
Price tiers and budget totals shown above are editorial estimates;
actual Amazon prices vary.
At a glance
Our top pick in each category
The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category.
Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.
Pick your faction before you spend anything. Warhammer has dozens of armies, each with their own models, rules, and aesthetic. You don't need to know the lore; just look at pictures and find the army that makes you want to paint. Space Marines are the beginner default; Necrons are excellent too. Chaos is great but complex.
Combat Patrol is the right scope for year one. A full 2,000-point army (the tournament standard) costs $400–800 in models alone. Combat Patrol is 500 points, specifically sized to get you playing fast with a manageable number of models. Start here, add one unit at a time.
Games Workshop products have no substitute for the models themselves. Unlike almost every other hobby, GW miniatures are proprietary; you can't sub cheaper brands. Paints, brushes, and tools have affordable alternatives. The models are what they are. Budget accordingly.
The most confusing first purchase in Warhammer is which box to start with. GW sells entry-level sets at several price points: the honest answer is Combat Patrol. It gives you a full 500-point army of a single faction, priced around $85–130, and it's specifically designed as your on-ramp: every unit included is good, and the set is rules-legal straight out of the box. The 2-faction starter boxes are fine too, but they split your painting attention across two armies and take twice as long to finish.
Starter Sets — what's the difference?
A few common shapes, each making a different trade.
Combat Patrol
One faction, 500 pts, rules included. Best first buy if you know your army.
Points
~500 (patrol size)
Factions
One (your choice)
Rules
Combat Patrol rules included
Best for Anyone who knows which faction they want to collect
Tradeoff Faction-specific: choose carefully; you'll be committed
Starter Set (2-faction)
Two factions, simplified rules, lower price. Best if undecided.
Points
~200–300 per side
Factions
Two (preset)
Rules
Simplified core rules
Best for Undecided beginners or buying with a friend
Tradeoff Fewer minis per faction; may not be your preferred army
Flagship Box
Maximum minis, full rulebook, two factions. The all-in box.
Points
~1,000 per side
Factions
Two (preset)
Rules
Full core rulebook + lore
Best for Committed beginners who want the best per-model value
Tradeoff Expensive ($200+) and overwhelming for most first-timers
Best starter
Games Workshop
Warhammer 40,000 Combat Patrol: Space Marines
$$
★★★★★Our rating
Space Marines are the most beginner-friendly faction in the game: forgiving rules, the richest painting tutorial library on YouTube, and the largest community. This Combat Patrol gives you Primaris Marines in a useful configuration, all legal for Patrol games out of the box. If you're undecided on faction, start here. You can always add a second army later.
What we like
Most beginner-friendly faction with forgiving rules and a huge tutorial library
Every unit in the box is useful; no filler included
Combat Patrol format means you're playing real games within weeks
What to know
Space Marines are the most common army; yours will look like everyone else's
Primaris scale doesn't mix with older classic Marine models
GW's introductory box ships with simplified rules and minis from two factions. Fewer models than Combat Patrol, but you get a taste of two armies and the core mechanics before committing to a full faction. A good choice if you genuinely can't decide on an army yet.
What we like
Lower entry cost: under $60 for the introductory tier
Two factions lets you try both sides before committing
Simplified rules reduce cognitive load on day one
What to know
Fewer minis per faction; won't fill out a patrol-size game
Simplified rules cap out fast; full rules download required soon
The flagship 10th Edition box: full core rules, Space Marines vs. Tyranids, enough models to build a patrol-size force per side. The per-model cost is excellent. Buy this if you're going all-in and know you want both factions, or if you're splitting it with a friend who wants the other army.
What we like
Best per-model value of any GW starter product
Full core rulebook included; no separate purchase needed
Tyranids and Space Marines are both solid beginner armies
What to know
Overwhelming quantity for a first buy: 72+ models to assemble
May be out of print; check availability before planning around it
Citadel paints (Games Workshop's brand) are the default for a reason: every tutorial on YouTube uses them, so the color names match whatever guide you're following. The Citadel Essentials Set covers the most-used base colors, a wash, and a layer paint (the three paint types that handle 90% of beginner work). Army Painter and Vallejo are legitimate and cheaper alternatives, but you'll spend ten minutes cross-referencing colors for every tutorial you follow. Start with Citadel, switch later if cost matters.
Best starter
Games Workshop
Citadel Base Paint Set
$$
★★★★★Our rating
Eleven base paints covering the core colors for most Warhammer armies, exactly what every YouTube tutorial builds on. Using the same Citadel colors as the tutorials means you follow step-by-step guides exactly without translating. The set works together; no color theory required to finish your first model.
What we like
Colors match every GW tutorial; no cross-referencing required
Includes a wash (the easiest way to add instant depth to a model)
Pre-selected to work together; no color theory knowledge needed
What to know
GW flip-top pots dry out faster than dropper-bottle alternatives
Smaller volume per pot than equivalent Army Painter prices
The serious alternative to Citadel. Dropper bottles stay fresh longer than GW flip-top pots, pigment quality is competitive, and the price-per-ml is better. The set includes a Quickshade wash equivalent and starter brushes. Downside: tutorials use Citadel color names, so you'll be translating.
What we like
Dropper bottles don't skin over or dry out like flip-top pots
Lower price-per-ml than Citadel; budget stretches further
Includes a Quickshade wash equivalent and starter brushes
What to know
Tutorial color names won't match; translating adds friction for beginners
Slightly more batch-to-batch color variation than Citadel
Contrast paints are GW's cheat code for beginners: one thick coat over white or grey primer gives shaded, highlighted results in a single pass. Not a full paint replacement, but transformative for getting armies to tabletop standard fast. Add these after your first box; they work best on large, textured surfaces.
What we like
Single coat delivers shading and highlights simultaneously
Dramatically faster than base + wash + layer technique
8-12 colors cover almost any army color scheme
What to know
Requires specific primers; can't substitute black or random grey
Results look 'Contrast-painted' to experienced hobbyists
You need two brushes to start: a base brush (medium, for laying down primary colors quickly) and a detail brush (fine tip, for faces, weapons, and small areas). Citadel sells these individually or in a set. Synthetic brushes are fine to start. Save the expensive kolinsky sable brushes for when you can actually tell the difference between a good brush stroke and a bad one, which takes about six months.
Best starter
Games Workshop
Citadel Essential Brush Selection
$$
★★★★★Our rating
Includes a base brush, a layer brush, and a small detail brush: the three you'll actually reach for. The quality is honest: better than the brushes that come in box sets, not as refined as real sable. Good for a year of regular painting before you'll want to upgrade.
What we like
Exactly the three brush types beginners use; nothing extraneous
Handles labeled by type; removes guesswork from the workflow
Paired with Citadel paints and pots; ergonomics match the system
What to know
Synthetic bristles lose their point after 3–6 months of regular use
No large wash brush included; buy a cheap flat brush separately
The miniature painting standard. A single size 1 kolinsky sable holds more paint, comes to a finer tip, and keeps its shape far longer than any synthetic. Worth it once you've been painting long enough to feel the difference. Buy one size 1; it handles 80% of detail work.
What we like
Fine tip holds shape 5–10x longer than any synthetic equivalent
One brush covers both detail work and small layering tasks
The actual standard that professional miniature painters use
What to know
Premium price: overkill until you've painted your first army
Natural hair ruins easily if paint dries in the ferrule
The tools matter more than beginners expect. You'll assemble 20–50 plastic models per Combat Patrol box, and the right clippers make a real difference in the quality of your finished minis. At minimum you need: flush-cut nippers (removes parts from the sprue cleanly), a hobby knife (for cleaning mold lines), and plastic cement, not super glue (which is wrong for plastic). GW sells a Hobby Starter Set that covers these for around $30, or you can build your own kit piece by piece.
Best starter
Games Workshop
Citadel Hobby Starter Set
$$
★★★★★Our rating
Gets you nippers, glue, and the essential cleanup tools in one box at a fair price. Not the best individual components, but buying the set avoids the 'which glue is right' paralysis on day one. Pick this up alongside your first box; you'll use every item in it within the first week.
What we like
One purchase covers clippers, glue, and essential cleanup tools
GW-calibrated for plastic Citadel miniatures specifically
Eliminates the 'which glue do I buy' research spiral
What to know
Included nippers are adequate but not hobby-grade; plan to upgrade
Experienced hobbyists may already own better versions of most tools
Plastic cement is the correct adhesive for Warhammer miniatures. It chemically welds plastic together, creating a bond stronger than the plastic itself. Tamiya's thin formulation flows into tight joints by capillary action: brush along the seam and it wicks in automatically. Every serious hobbyist uses this over super glue.
What we like
Chemical weld creates bonds stronger than the plastic itself
Thin formula wicks into joints by capillary action; no mess
The standard adhesive the entire hobby community reaches for
What to know
No repositioning once applied; plan your assembly order first
Not for metal or resin models; those require super glue
After your first box you'll notice the stock nippers crush plastic slightly before cutting, leaving a small nub to file. The Xuron uses a single-edged blade that cuts flush with almost no crushing. Upgrade here when you start caring about clean cuts, usually after your second or third box.
What we like
Single-edge blade cuts flush; almost zero cleanup needed after
Lighter than GW nippers, reducing hand fatigue on big model kits
Hobbyist-grade upgrade without the full Tamiya tool-set price
What to know
Single-edge blade dulls fast if used on anything but thin plastic sprue
Doesn't replace the cement and files in a starter set
Primer is non-negotiable. Paint applied directly to bare plastic will rub off within weeks. Primer bonds to the plastic and gives your topcoat something to grip. Citadel sells primer in spray cans (fast, consistent, perfect for beginners) and brush-on pots. Spray primer is dramatically better: consistent coverage, dries in 15 minutes, and you can't over-apply it the way you can with brush-on. The primer color determines which paint schemes work: black for dark armies, white or off-white for bright colors and Contrast paints, grey for maximum flexibility.
Best starter
Games Workshop
Citadel Chaos Black Spray
$23.64 as of Jun 22, 2026
★★★★★Our rating
The default black primer for Warhammer. Works with every dark army color scheme by building shadow into the recesses automatically; paints over black have natural depth built in. Spray outside or in a well-ventilated area, hold 12 inches from the model. One can covers 15–20 infantry models.
What we like
Built-in shadow effect; dark recesses require zero extra shading work
GW formula bonded for Citadel paints; guaranteed adhesion
One can covers 15–20 infantry models; solid value per application
What to know
Temperature and humidity sensitive; can't spray in cold or damp
Bright colors need 2–3 coats over black to show vibrantly
A warm off-white primer that's the required base for Contrast paints. If you're going the Contrast route (see Paints section), Wraithbone is mandatory. Also the right primer for yellow, white, or desert-colored armies where black would kill vibrancy. Buy this one if you're going the speed-painting route.
What we like
Required base for Contrast paints to deliver their one-coat finish
Warm bone tone reads well under pale, bright, or desert color schemes
Doubles as a base color for bone-themed or undead army aesthetics
What to know
Useless as a Contrast base if over-sprayed or applied unevenly
Wrong choice for dark color schemes; use Chaos Black instead
Warhammer 40K is three hobbies in one: assembly, painting, and a miniature war game. Most people fall in love with one and tolerate the others. Here's what to expect in your first month of all three.
Nobody sits down with a box of Warhammer and instinctively knows what they’re doing. The hobby is genuinely dense at the start — clippers, sprue gates, mold lines, primers, washes, detachment rules. There’s a lot. But it frontloads the complexity. Once you’ve done it once, you’ve done it forever.
This is what the first month actually looks like, without the marketing version.
Week 1: Unboxing and assembly
Open the box and you’ll find sprues — flat plastic frames with parts attached by small connection points called gates. Every model is broken into head, torso, arms, and weapon components that you clip off the sprue, clean up, and glue together.
Step one is to clip parts off the sprue using flush-cut nippers. Cut close to the part but not directly on it — leave a small nub, then trim the nub with a second cut once the part is free. This protects fine details from your first cut.
Step two is mold line removal. Where the two halves of the mold met during manufacturing, a faint ridge runs across every piece. Run your hobby knife along the ridge to scrape it away. Do this before priming. Once paint and primer are on, mold lines become permanent.
Step three: glue. Plastic cement (not super glue) is what you want. It chemically bonds plastic to plastic and sets in about 30 seconds. You can’t reposition after that — dry-fit parts before you glue and have a plan.
The temptation to rush assembly is real. You want to paint. You want to play. Slow down. Five minutes of careful assembly per model saves two hours of frustration repainting mold lines you missed.
Weeks 2–3: Painting your first model
Primer first. Take your assembled models outside on a dry day above 50°F, hold the spray can 12 inches away, and apply a thin, even coat. Two light passes beat one heavy pass — heavy primer fills in details and creates a grainy texture. Let it dry 30 minutes before touching.
Then: base coat, wash, and highlight. That’s the three-step formula every beginner tutorial follows, and it works.
Base coat: apply your primary colors with a medium brush. This doesn’t need to be perfect — just cover the plastic. Two thin coats beat one thick coat (the thin-coat rule applies to every step of painting, forever).
Wash: apply a dark ink (Nuln Oil for silver/grey armor, Agrax Earthshade for brown tones) liberally over the whole model. The wash flows into recesses and creates instant depth and shadow. This is the most dramatic single step in painting — a washed base coat looks like a proper miniature. Give the wash 30 minutes to dry completely.
Highlight: with a small brush and a lighter version of your base color, paint only the raised edges and high points of the model. You don’t need to be precise — one stroke along armor edges is enough. This is what makes a model look three-dimensional.
Your first painted model will not look like the box art. That’s normal. The box art was painted by a professional with years of practice. Your model will look like a model painted by someone in their first month, which is exactly what it is. Put it on the table anyway.
Warhammer 40K uses 28mm plastic models but plays like a board game without a board. You measure distances in inches, take turns moving and shooting, and roll dice to resolve everything. The rules have depth, but the surface layer is simple enough to learn in a single afternoon.
The best way to learn is Combat Patrol format — 500 points per side, a simplified points system, and specific rules designed for new players. Find someone else in the same position (a local game store almost certainly runs new player nights), set up on a 44”×30” table, and start moving.
A few things that will confuse you the first game:
Coherency: units must stay within 2” of at least one other model in the unit. Spreading out is tempting; it’s usually wrong.
Line of sight: in 10th Edition, most shooting rules require your model to have actual line of sight to the target model. If you can’t see it, you usually can’t shoot it.
Stratagems: every faction has special abilities you can activate by spending Command Points. Don’t try to memorize them before your first game. Just notice when your opponent uses them and ask what they do.
You will lose your first several games. That’s not bad news — that’s how games are learned. What you’re actually building is the mental model of how units interact, which decisions matter, and which threats to address when. That takes games to develop, not reading.
The things that will slow you down
Painting fatigue: Combat Patrol has 15–25 models. Most beginners underestimate how many models that is. Batch paint — do the same step on all models before moving to the next step — instead of finishing one model at a time. Assembly-line painting is 3–4x faster.
Analysis paralysis on colors: Pick a color scheme before you prime. GW’s official schemes have tutorials for every faction; just follow one. You can develop your own scheme on your second army. Decision fatigue on colors stalls more projects than bad brushwork.
Buying more models before finishing what you have: This is the single most common hobbyist failure mode. You get excited seeing a cool unit online and order it before your current box is done. You end up with a half-painted pile of sprues and no finished army. Don’t buy anything new until the Combat Patrol is assembled and primed.
What you’re actually building toward
At the end of month one, you’ll have a rough-but-complete painted Combat Patrol and two or three games under your belt. That’s a lot. Most people who open a Warhammer box never get that far.
From here, the hobby branches. Some people become dedicated painters — they care less about winning and more about the craft. Some become competitive players — they focus on lists and meta and tournaments. Most fall somewhere between. All three paths are valid.
The one thing they have in common: the models on the table are the ones you built and painted yourself. That’s worth something that’s genuinely hard to describe until you experience it.
Save your money
What you don't need yet
Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play
better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.
A full 2,000-point army — The tournament standard is 2,000 points. A Combat Patrol is 500. Finish and paint one patrol before you buy more models.
An airbrush — Airbrushing is a real upgrade, but only after you've learned the fundamentals by hand. Buying one in month one adds a new bottleneck before you're ready.
An army transport case — You don't have an army to protect yet. Any shoebox with foam works for your first box. Buy proper transport when you have models worth carrying.
Supplement rulebooks and codexes — GW's free Warhammer 40K app has all faction rules updated for each season. Don't spend $45 on a codex until you know what you actually need.
A wet palette — Useful for keeping paints workable during long sessions, but a ceramic tile or old plate works fine to start. Add this after your first few months.
Third-party conversion bits — Custom conversions are an advanced hobby within the hobby. Finish assembling and painting your starter box first.
First week
Your first seven days
A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.
Decide on your faction before you buy anything. Look at photos and pick the army that makes you want to paint. Commit to one; decision fatigue is real. · Action
Clip and assemble your first unit before priming. Clean mold lines now; they're nearly invisible under paint and impossible to fix after. · Action
Watch one painting tutorial for your specific faction before opening a paint pot. Miniac and Luke's APS on YouTube are the best starting points. · Learn
Paint your first model. It will be ugly. That's fine. The goal is to finish it, not win a competition. · Action
FAQ
Common questions
How much does it actually cost to start Warhammer 40K?
Budget $150–200 to start properly: a Combat Patrol box ($85–130 depending on faction), the Citadel Hobby Starter Set (~$35), primer (~$18), and a basic paint set (~$35). You can start cheaper, but those four purchases let you build and paint immediately without hitting walls.
Which faction should a complete beginner pick?
Space Marines or Necrons. Both have forgiving rules, excellent beginner tutorials, and Combat Patrol boxes that are genuinely fun to paint. Space Marines have more tutorial resources; Necrons are arguably easier to paint to a good tabletop standard. Avoid Orks, Tyranids, or Chaos as a first army. They're great, but model counts or complexity punish beginners.
Do I have to paint my models?
At most game stores and clubs, yes: 'painted armies only' is the common expectation. But the bar is 'three colors plus a based model,' not display-case standard. Even a basic paint job looks better than bare grey plastic, and you'll enjoy the hobby far more once your army has color.
What's the difference between a Combat Patrol box and a Starter Set?
A Combat Patrol box is a physical product: a curated single-faction army of ~15–20 models priced around $85–130. The Starter Set is a cheaper entry box with two factions and simplified rules. Combat Patrol gives you more models of one faction and is the better investment for anyone who knows what army they want.
Can I use any paint brand, or do I need Citadel?
Any brand works. Army Painter, Vallejo, and Reaper are all legitimate. Citadel's advantage for beginners is that every tutorial uses their color names, so you can follow step-by-step guides exactly without cross-referencing. Start with Citadel, switch to alternatives later once you know what you're doing.
How long does it take to paint a Combat Patrol box?
Realistically 2–4 months at a casual pace of a few hours per week. A Combat Patrol has 15–25 models, and each takes 2–5 hours to paint to tabletop standard. Don't rush it; the hobby's value is in the process. A well-painted unit feels genuinely satisfying in a way that a speed-run doesn't.
Warhammer Community — Games Workshop's official site. Rules, news, tutorials, faction lore. The 40K app download is here.
Goonhammer — The best independent analytical site for 40K. Army-building guides, faction reviews, and a genuinely useful new player primer. Not affiliated with GW.
Miniac (YouTube) — The gold standard for beginner miniature painting tutorials. Clear, patient, covers all skill levels. Start with the fundamentals playlist.
Luke's APS (YouTube) — Fast, practical techniques for painting armies to tabletop standard quickly: the realistic goal for a new hobbyist.
Auspex Tactics (YouTube) — Rules analysis, army building, and unit-by-unit breakdowns. Best for understanding which models are actually worth buying from a gameplay perspective.
r/Warhammer40k — Very active community. The weekly new player megathread is the best first stop. Painting showcase posts are great for goal-setting.
r/minipainting — Cross-hobby painting community. Post your work and get genuine feedback. More patient with beginners than faction-specific subreddits.
As an Amazon Associate, JustBeginning earns from qualifying purchases.
We may also earn commission from other affiliate programs linked on this
page. Editorial recommendations are independent; we don't choose
products based on commission rates.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date and time
indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability
information shown on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
Our top pickWarhammer 40,000 Combat Patrol: Space Marines
