Taxidermy is one of the few craft skills where people assume it requires professional training, then discover it's entirely learnable at home. Fish and small mammal mounts are genuinely accessible with the right supplies and a little patience. Here's exactly what to buy first, and what to wait on.
By Colin B. · Published July 12, 2026 · Last reviewed July 12, 2026
A basic fish mount kit with borax and eyes runs $80-120. A proper small mammal setup with forms and tanning chemicals lands at $150-250.
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At a glance
Our top pick in each category
The fastest path through this guide — each best-starter pick by category.
Scroll for the budget and upgrade alternatives.
Start with fish or a small mammal, not a deer. A largemouth bass or a squirrel is the taxidermy equivalent of a beginner woodworking project. The skinning process is shorter, the forms are cheaper, and you can learn the technique without committing hours to a large animal.
Expect to make mistakes on your first two mounts. Taxidermy is a craft skill, and the skill lives in your hands, not in your kit. Your first mount will have issues. Your third will look good. Your sixth will look great. Plan accordingly.
Smell is real, and preparation is the fix. A well-prepped hide with the right chemicals (borax, Stop-Rot) eliminates the odor problem beginners fear. Skipping the prep steps is what causes the smell, not the hobby itself.
The gear
What you actually need
Tanning Kits
A tanning kit gives you every chemical step in one purchase: pickle, tan, and finish. Advanced Tanning Solutions makes the most-used kits for beginners in the US. The Tan-a-Fur is for small game (squirrel, rabbit, fox); the Tan-a-Hide is for deer and large mammals. Note: foam forms for mounting must be ordered from specialty suppliers like McKenzie (mckenziesp.com) or Van Dyke's (vandyketaxidermy.com) since they aren't sold on Amazon.
Best starter
Advanced Tanning Solutions
Tan-a-Fur Skin Kit
$$
★★★★★Our rating
The Tan-a-Fur kit covers every chemical step for small-game skins: salt, pickle, tan, and finish. Designed for squirrel, rabbit, fox, raccoon, and coyote. Made in the USA by Advanced Tanning Solutions, the most-used beginner tanning brand. Enough chemistry for several mounts, with instructions that actually explain what each step does.
What we like
Covers every chemical step: salt, pickle, tan, and finish in one box
Designed for squirrel, rabbit, fox, and raccoon, the right beginner animals
Made in USA; instructions explain the why behind each step
What to know
Tanning only; foam forms and glass eyes are ordered separately
Kit is for flat tanning and small-scale mounting; not for deer or large animals
Once you're ready for deer, elk, or bear work, the Tan-a-Hide Kit covers the full large-mammal tanning process. Includes the pickle solution, tanning formula, and hide oil you'll need for a shoulder mount that stays pliable and odor-free for decades. Upgrade to this after your first 2-3 small-game mounts.
What we like
Covers full large-mammal tanning: pickle, tan, and conditioning oil
Same trusted brand as Tan-a-Fur; familiar process at larger scale
Includes enough chemistry for a deer cape or equivalent large hide
What to know
More than you need for small game; overkill for a first squirrel mount
Deer-scale fleshing requires a fleshing beam not included in this kit
After the hide is tanned and fitted to the form, you'll use sculpting compound to build out the eye sockets, fill gaps around the nose and ears, and seal any places where the skin doesn't lie flush against the foam. Aves Apoxie Sculpt is the industry standard for this detail work; it stays workable for 2-3 hours and hardens permanently without baking. The ALL Game Epoxy Putty is the heavier-duty option for form repairs and larger fills.
Apoxie Sculpt is the go-to modeling compound for taxidermy detail work. Mix equal parts A and B and get a clay-like compound that stays workable for 2-3 hours before hardening permanently with zero shrinkage. Use it to build eye sockets, fill nostril and ear detail, and seal gaps around the face. One pound handles 10-15 mounts.
What we like
Stays workable 2-3 hours; hardens permanently with zero shrinkage
Used by working taxidermists for eye socket prep and face detail
Takes paint well after curing; smooth finish on most applications
What to know
Wear nitrile gloves; skin contact with part B can irritate
1-lb is more than most beginners use on a first mount; 1/4-lb also available
ALL Game is formulated specifically for taxidermy: used to rebuild facial anatomy, fill large gaps between hide and form, and repair foam forms that arrived with imperfections. The 3-lb kit is the bulk buy for anyone doing multiple large-animal mounts in a season. Sets in 30-45 minutes and cures to a paintable, sandable surface.
What we like
Specifically formulated for taxidermy; not a repurposed general compound
Three-pound kit covers a full season of large-animal detail work
Sets to a paintable, sandable surface that takes hide paste cleanly
What to know
3 lbs is overkill for a first mount; more than a beginner will use
Sets in 30-45 minutes; don't mix more than you'll use in one session
The fleshing tool is the most important piece of equipment in taxidermy. It's what you use to scrape fat and membrane off the inside of the hide. Done right, the skin is clean and the mount lasts decades; done wrong, it rots. You'll also need a good scalpel handle with sharp blades for skinning, and heavy upholstery needles for closing the incision after mounting.
Best starter
DakotaLine
Wiebe 12-Inch Flesher
$
★★★★★Our rating
The DakotaLine Wiebe Flesher is the standard beginner fleshing tool used by trappers and taxidermists. Dual-edge design scrapes fat and membrane off the inside of a hide with less risk of gouging than a single-edge blade. Referenced in more beginner taxidermy tutorials than any other fleshing tool. Under $15 and worth buying a second when the first wears.
What we like
Standard beginner fleshing tool referenced in most taxidermy tutorials
Dual-edge design reduces gouging risk versus single-edge alternatives
Under $15; easy to replace when the edge wears
What to know
Requires practice on face and neck areas where hide is thinnest
Fleshing knife style; not the same as a traditional wire-loop fleshing tool
Used by surgeons and taxidermists alike, the Swann Morton No.3 handle with a box of No.10 blades is the right skinning tool. Sharper than any box cutter, replaceable blades mean you always start a session fresh. Swap the blade every 20-30 minutes of actual cutting; a dull blade tears skin instead of cutting it.
What we like
Medical-grade sharpness makes clean incisions through tough hide
Replaceable blades keep every skinning session starting sharp
Handle and 100-blade box bundled; one order covers many mounts
What to know
Razor sharp; a cut-resistant glove on the non-dominant hand is worth it
Blades sold with this set are No.10 size; a No.4 handle fits heavier blades
Every skin incision you make has to be sewn closed on the form, and heavy saddler's harness needles push through thick mammal hide without bending. John James makes the go-to heavy needle for leather and hide sewing. The blunt tip that lets you find stitch holes without splitting the skin unexpectedly.
What we like
Blunt tip designed for sewing through pre-punched holes in thick hide
Heavy gauge handles mammal hide without bending under pressure
John James is the standard needle brand in leather and hide sewing
What to know
Straight needles only; curved varieties also useful for awkward body seams
Sold in packs of 25; most beginners use 3-5 needles per mount
Preservation is what makes taxidermy work long-term. Borax is the baseline, it desiccates the hide and deters insects, and it has been the standard in taxidermy for over a century. Stop-Rot prevents bacterial decomposition during the fleshing and drying window. Skip these steps and the mount develops an odor within a year. The chemistry isn't optional.
Best starter
20 Mule Team
Borax (4 lb)
$
★★★★★Our rating
The 20 Mule Team box from the laundry aisle is the same borax taxidermists have used for generations. Pack the inside of the fleshed hide generously before mounting to desiccate the skin and deter insects. A 4-lb box handles 6-10 small mammal mounts and costs under $10. No substitute at this price.
What we like
Standard preservation chemical used by taxidermists for over a century
One 4-lb box handles 6-10 small mammal mounts for about $8
Available at any grocery or hardware store as a backup source
What to know
Desiccation only, not a true tan for deer or large mammals
Must be applied thoroughly; missed spots invite insects over time
Once you've done several borax mounts and want professional-grade results, NuTan is the standalone tanning formula used for deer, moose, elk, fox, and rabbit hides. Unlike a full kit, this is just the active tanning solution, letting you build your own chemical workflow once you understand what each step does. One gallon handles multiple large-animal hides.
What we like
Standalone tanning formula; use it in your own workflow once you know the steps
Covers deer, moose, elk, fox, and rabbit hides from one gallon
Made in USA by Advanced Tanning Solutions; same brand as the Tan-a-Fur kit
What to know
Tanning solution only; you'll need pickle and oil products separately
Overkill for your first 3-5 borax-level practice mounts
Glass eyes are what bring a mount to life, and buying the wrong size or color is an easy beginner mistake. Eyes are sold by species (deer, bass, squirrel, pheasant) and by size (measured in mm diameter). Buy 2-3 pairs for your first project, placing eyes is a learned skill and the first set often goes in at the wrong angle or depth. Most beginners underestimate how much eye placement affects the finished mount.
Eyes — what's the difference?
A few common shapes, each making a different trade.
Small, dark iris. 8-14mm for squirrel, rabbit, fox.
Squirrel/Rabbit
10-12mm
Fox/Raccoon
14-18mm
Coyote
18-22mm
Best for Small game taxidermy on squirrel, rabbit, or fox
Tradeoff Tiny eyes are harder to set at the correct angle; buy an extra pair
Best starter
Megan's Beaded Designs
Whitetail Deer Glass Eyes, Dark Brown (30mm)
$
★★★★★Our rating
Handmade in the USA from lead-free glass, these deer eyes are sized right for adult whitetail (30mm covers most does; 32-34mm for bucks). Professional taxidermy-grade eyes from Tohickon require ordering from specialty suppliers; these are the best glass eyes available on Amazon and give realistic results for beginner and intermediate mounts.
What we like
Handmade in the USA from lead-free glass, not mass-produced plastic
30mm is the right size for most adult whitetail does
Available in multiple iris colors; order the shade that matches your animal
What to know
Half-sphere cabochon style; professional mounts use full-sphere Tohickon eyes
Color choice matters; photograph the deer's eye before skinning
Fish eyes are iridescent and species-specific in a way mammal eyes aren't. The walleye iridescent glass eye is the right choice for walleye, pike, and similar predator fish. For bass, use the 12-16mm 'Realistic Bass Fish Glass Eyes' (separate listing). Megan's fish eyes have the right glassy-iridescent quality fish eyes need.
What we like
Iridescent finish matches the reflective quality of real fish eyes
Multiple size options; order the size matching your specific fish
What to know
Walleye-specific coloring; bass, trout, and panfish need different listings
Fish eye placement requires patience; the angles are easy to get wrong
Most people assume taxidermy is inaccessible without formal training. It isn't. Here's what your first month actually looks like, from choosing a specimen to hanging a finished mount on the wall.
Taxidermy has an image problem. Most people picture either a dusty museum diorama or a reality TV extreme-craft show, and in both cases it looks like something that requires either a professional studio or a cast-iron constitution. Neither is true.
At its core, taxidermy is a preservation craft (the same family as leatherwork and curing). The techniques are learnable from YouTube and a good supplier’s instructions. The first few mounts will have visible mistakes. By your fifth or sixth, the process starts to feel natural.
Here is what your first month actually looks like.
Week 1: Choose your specimen and gather supplies
The most important decision you’ll make is what to work on first. The right answer for most beginners is a fish or a small mammal, not a deer.
Fish (bass, panfish, trout) are the fastest entry. The skinning process takes 1-2 hours, the forms are inexpensive ($8-25), and you can freeze your catch and work on it at any point. The main downside is that painting a fish realistically requires some patience with acrylics.
Small mammals (squirrel, rabbit, small predators) are the classic taxidermy starting point. More fleshing is required, and the hide is more fragile than fish skin, but the technique is what most taxidermy tutorials are built around.
Don’t start with a deer. A deer shoulder mount is a multi-day project requiring large, expensive forms and significantly more fleshing skill. Do two or three smaller mounts first. The technique will be obvious by then.
Once you’ve chosen your specimen, order your supplies before you freeze anything. You’ll need a starter kit (preservation chemicals and hide paste), a form matched to your animal’s species and size, glass eyes, and basic tools (fleshing tool, scalpel handle with blades, heavy needles). Most of this is available on Amazon from McKenzie or Research Mannikins.
A note on forms: measure your specimen before you order. Fish forms are sized by length. Mammal forms are sized by body measurements. A form that’s 2 inches too small won’t work, and the return process is annoying.
Week 2: Skinning and fleshing
This is the step most beginners are nervous about, and the nervousness is understandable. It’s also the step that becomes comfortable faster than you’d expect.
For fish, the skinning process involves cutting along the dorsal fin from head to tail, peeling the skin off one side over the spine, and removing the internal organs and meat. The form is then slipped inside the skin and the two halves reattach around it.
For small mammals, you make an incision from the base of the tail to the back of the skull, peel the skin away from the carcass (called “casing”), and remove the skull and lower legs inside the skin. The fleshing step (scraping fat and membrane off the inner skin surface) is where most of the actual skill lives.
Fleshing is the make-or-break step. Flesh too timidly and fat deposits under the hide will rot over time and cause slippage (the hair or scales detaching from the skin). Flesh too aggressively and you’ll puncture the hide. The Dakota IV fleshing tool gives you better feedback than a knife for this; the wire end catches on membranes without cutting through the skin.
Spray Stop-Rot on the fleshed skin as you work, especially in warm weather. It buys you an extra day or two of processing window and is the main thing that prevents the smell beginners fear.
After fleshing, pack the inside of the skin thoroughly with borax. It desiccates the remaining organic material and deters insects. Don’t skip it.
Week 3: Mounting and positioning
Once the skin is fleshed and treated, you fit it over the form. This is the most creative part of the process. The positioning of ears, eyes, and facial features is where the personality of the mount comes from.
Eyes are placed before the skin dries. You’ll work hide paste or epoxy sculpt into the eye sockets on the form, set the glass eyes at the correct angle and depth, then adjust the skin around them while everything is still pliable. Most beginners set the eyes too shallow or at the wrong angle on their first attempt; buy an extra pair and expect one set to need repositioning.
For fish, the skin is pinned or stapled to the form while it dries, and the fins are shaped while they’re still flexible. For mammals, the incision is sewn closed with the heavy upholstery needles after the skin is pulled snug over the form.
The mount then goes on a form stand or wire support to dry. This takes 3-7 days for fish; 1-3 weeks for small mammals. Don’t rush it; moving the mount before it’s fully dry can distort the position.
For fish, finishing means repainting. The natural pigment in fish skin fades as it dries: a freshly caught bass looks vivid; a dried mount looks dull. You’ll need acrylic paints and a reference photo of your fish. Start with the base color and work your way to the detail layers. Beginners are often surprised by how much the paint step improves the finished piece.
For mammals, finishing is mostly trimming and grooming: straightening fur, repositioning any lifted edges, and touching up with the appropriate color if needed. A small amount of hide paste under any loose edges and then clamping overnight usually fixes them.
Mount it on a plaque, a piece of driftwood, or a simple wall bracket. The presentation matters more than most beginners expect.
Where beginners struggle (and what to do)
Slippage. The hair or scales lift off the skin in patches after drying. Cause: inadequate fleshing or insufficient borax application. Fix: go back to the fleshing step on your next mount.
Eyes look wrong. The angle or depth is off. Fix: practice on a spare set before committing. Study reference photos of the living animal from the front, not just the side.
Hide shrinks on the form. The skin pulls away from edges as it dries. Cause: form is the wrong size, or the skin wasn’t stretched enough before pinning. Fix: measure more carefully before ordering the next form.
Fish looks faded and gray. Normal; the paint step is what restores color. This is expected, not a defect.
Every one of these mistakes is more useful than a perfect first mount would be. The technique lives in your hands, not in your kit.
Save your money
What you don't need yet
Beginners get pressured to buy a lot of stuff that doesn't help them play
better. Here's what we'd skip on day one.
An airbrush — Acrylic touch-up pens and a fine detail brush handle fish repainting at beginner level. An airbrush is a real upgrade, but only after you've done several mounts.
A fleshing beam — Fleshing beams are for deer-scale and larger work. For small mammals and fish, a hand tool on a covered workbench is all you need.
Commercial tanning salts — Borax covers your first 5-10 small mammal and bird mounts. Move to a proper tan only after you've confirmed the hobby will stick.
Sculpting clay — Useful for face and nose detail work on mammals, but that's an intermediate technique. Get three mounts done without it first.
A vacuum freeze dryer — Used for small animal and pet preservation. Costs $3,000-10,000. Firmly in the professional column, ignore it for your first few years.
First week
Your first seven days
A short, real plan to get from gear-on-doorstep to actually playing.
Watch 2-3 complete beginner taxidermy tutorials on YouTube before buying anything. · Learn
For game animals you've legally harvested and fish you've legally caught, yes, no permit needed for personal use in most states. Migratory birds (songbirds, waterfowl) are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and require a federal permit. Don't attempt migratory bird taxidermy without one.
How much does a beginner taxidermy setup cost?
A basic fish mount setup (kit + form + borax + eyes) runs $80-120. A small mammal setup is similar. A deer shoulder mount setup with proper tanning chemicals runs $200-350 for your first one.
How long does a fish mount take?
Skinning and mounting takes 2-4 hours. Drying on the form takes 3-7 days. Painting and finishing takes another 2-3 hours after drying. Total wall-clock time is about a week from live specimen to finished mount.
Does taxidermy smell?
A properly done finished mount has no odor. The smell beginners fear comes from skipping prep steps. Apply Stop-Rot on fresh hides, flesh thoroughly, and pack with borax, done right, there's no lasting odor on the finished piece.
What's the easiest animal to start taxidermy with?
Fish, specifically panfish or bass. Skinning takes under 2 hours, forms are inexpensive and accurate, and the finished mount doesn't require the same fleshing skill as mammals. Squirrels and rabbits are the simplest mammal entry point.
Do I need formal training to learn taxidermy?
No. YouTube tutorials, supplier-produced guides, and the NTA's beginner resources have made self-teaching realistic. Many working taxidermists are entirely self-taught. A local workshop is useful for accelerated feedback, but it's not a prerequisite.
National Taxidermist Association — The professional body for taxidermists. Certification programs, forums, and a directory of accredited practitioners if you want to watch a pro work before going solo.
McKenzie Taxidermy Supply — The largest taxidermy supplier in the US. Forms, chemicals, tools, eyes, everything. Their catalog is a useful reference for what products exist before you start ordering.
Van Dyke's Taxidermy Supply — The other major supplier, with a strong selection of forms and educational DVDs for beginners.
Breakthrough Magazine — The trade magazine for taxidermists. Published quarterly. More useful once you're past the absolute beginner stage.
r/Taxidermy — Active community with beginner-friendly posting norms. Photo critique threads are genuinely useful for identifying what to improve on your own mounts.
Joe Coombs Taxidermy (YouTube) — The most-watched beginner taxidermy channel. Detailed, unhurried, covers fish and small mammal work thoroughly. Start here before any other resource.
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